On Tuesday, 5-21, I picked up my bike from Lance’s Cyclery in Bismarck, where Lance overhauled it during the slow winter season. Despite my careful (or so I thought) pre-trip planning, while there I picked up a couple of things I forgot, like water bottles! I had remembered to bring biking gloves, but somehow had brought two right-hand gloves, so a new pair of gloves was also in order.

At noon, I said goodbye to our son Billy, and he headed back to Minnesota in the car while I headed west. I captured a photo of Billy in front of the bike shop with my bike before it was loaded with all my gear.

I crossed the Missouri River only a mile or so from the bike shop. The railing on the bridge across the river features the seals of all the country’s five military services.

There was a paved bike trail for about a four-mile stretch heading out of Bismarck–nice! In Mandan, just west of Bismarck, I came across this sculpture, part of a “Trail of Tears” series of sculptures located in all 50 states that Peter Toth, a Hungarian-born American sculptor, carved out of wood to “raise the nation’s conscience to the plight of the native Americans.” This sculpture was no. 39 in the series and was dedicated in 1981.

Most of my 32-mile route today was along Hwy 139, which had both very little shoulder but also very little traffic. There were also no towns or amenities along the route to New Salem (pop. 946)–i.e., no place to park the bike and lean it against a tree, a post, a building, etc., and nowhere to sit and rest. The route was a bit hilly, unlike those long flat stretches I remember from eastern North Dakota, and it took me five hours to get to my hotel and finally have a chance to get off the bike and relax.

High on a bluff overlooking the road on the way to New Salem is a life-size, 1,200 feet long, 32-piece sculpture of a cattle drive featuring a riderless horse created out of plates of steel by Larry Kahl in memory of his father, rancher Buddy Kahl. It is a bit far away to see clearly from the road, but I captured a close-up view for you with my camera.

These two photos provide a glimpse of the hilly terrain in this part of the state. I’m not complaining, and I know it will only get worse in the miles ahead.

I arrived in New Salem around 5 p.m. and am staying at the Metropolitan Hotel, built during 1902-1906 but extensively renovated by the current owners in 2021.

Here is the view as I approached New Salem. As you can see, the name of the town is carved into a hill above the town, and nearby you can also see the sculpture of “Salem Sue,” which stands “large and in charge” (according to the town’s website) high above the town. Erected in 1974 by the New Salem Lion’s Club to promote area Holstein herds, the sculpture appears to have been inspired by the giant buffalo in Jamestown, N.D. that was the subject of a previous blog entry. It seems a shame to come all this way and not get a close-up view of Sue, but I’m not relishing the thought of another hill to climb. I will let you know what I decide to do after eating breakfast.

Here is the hotel, with my bike propped up against the front of the building. The hotel also features a coffee shop, consignment store, and nail salon.

I feel quite privileged to be staying in the Raymond Hall Room, a room at the hotel named after Raymond Grade. As the marker outside my room attests, Raymond was born near Skogmo, North Dakota. He lost his hearing at age 2 and moved to the North Dakota School for the Deaf at age 6. Raymond’s hearing impairment did not stop him from socializing, however, and he was known for his sense of humor and ability to make friends with anybody. He passed away in 2020 at age 91.

Here is the scene across the street from the hotel, located at 514 Main Ave. in New Salem. The hotel’s decor features a delightful mix of the old and new, and I recommend you check it out if you are ever in the area.